pattern loom

An old form of loom in which the pattern "was formed by a draw boy pulling or lifting selected harness threads by hand.

The jacquard machine is an essential addition to looms intended for weaving ornamental designs that are beyond the scope of stave -work. The machine is made in many forms and sizes for different branches of the weaving industry, but its characteristic feature is that it furnishes the means whereby every individual thread in a design may weave differently from all the others. This permits the delineation of all forms and shapes and the fineness of the detail is only limited by the texture, e.g., the number of ends and picks per inch. The action of the jacquard machine is communicated to the warp threads through a system of cords known variously as the harness mounting and jacquard harness. Actually, loom harness ante-dated the jacquard machine by many centuries, and many draw loom harnesses were much more complicated than modern jacquard harnesses. An essential feature of a jacquard is that each hook in the machine can be lifted at will independently of the others. The selection of which hooks shall lift and which shall be left down is made by the designer, by painting marks on squared paper to indicate the hooks that must be lifted on each pick. In cutting the pattern cards, a hole is cut for every mark or filled square on the design paper, and a blank is left for every empty square on the paper. Assuming that each pattern card represents one pick of weft, when the card is pressed against the needles of the jacquard, the blanks push the unwanted needles and hooks out of the path of the lifting griffe; the holes allow the needles to pass through and thus remain stationary, so that the corresponding hooks remain in the path of the lifting griffe and cause the corresponding warp threads to be lifted. Jacquard: Single-lift, single-cylinder - In this machine there is only one griffe which lifts on every pick, and only one pattern cylinder, which strikes every pick. This restricts the speed at which the loom can be operated. Jacquard: Double-lift, single-cylinder - This is the machine in most common use for ordinary jacquard work. There are two lifting griffes and twice as many hooks as in a single-lift machine, but only the same number of needles and one card cylinder. The shed formed is of the semi-open type, which causes less movement of the warp threads, as any threads which require to be up for two or more picks in succession are arrested in their fall and taken up again. Double-lift jacquards give a greatly increased loom production as compared with single-lift machines, as they permit the speed of the loom to be increased to about 180 picks per minute for narrow looms, as compared with 120 to 140 picks per minute for single-lift jacquards. Jacquard: Double-lift, double-cylinder - In this machine there are two sets of hooks and needles, two lifting griffes and two card cylinders, odd picks in one set of cards and even picks in the other set. This permits maximum loom speed, it prolongs the life of the pattern cards, but is open to the serious drawback that spoiled cloth is caused whenever the two card cylinders get out of correct rotation. Jacquard: Cross Border - Fabrics with borders, such as tablecloths, bed quilts, etc., are woven with jacquards with two griffes, two sets of hooks and two card cylinders. The cards for weaving the border are laced together and weave on one cylinder, while the centre cards are on the other cylinder. The loom weaves at the speed of a single-cylinder, single-lift machine, and the change from the border to the centre cards can be made by hand or automatically

General term for processes after winding concerned in preparing weaver's and knitter's warps. Methods of warping vary according to (1) the yarns employed (2) whether they are sized or not, and (3) at what state sizing takes place. There are at least seven methods of warp preparation, e.g., beam warping, direct warping, mill warping on vertical mills, section warping on horizontal mills and in cheeses on section blocks, Scotch dresser sizing, Scotch warp dressing, and Yorkshire warp dressing. Beam Warping is the system in general use for making grey cotton goods. The beam warper comprises a creel for the supply ends, which may be on double-flanged bobbins, cones or cheeses, and a beaming head which comprises mechanism for mounting and rotating a warper's beam and means for winding the yarn from the creel supply on to the beam under suitable tension. The number of ends and length of warp on a back or warper's beam is related to what is required in the weaver's beam. Assuming the weaver's beams were required to have 2928 ends, 24's warp, and 8 cuts of 96 yards each, the back beams for a set might have 2928: 6 = 488 ends, and 2 X 6 X 8 X 96 = 9216 yards. On the slasher sizing machine six back beams would be run together, thereby producing 12 weaver's beams each containing 2928 ends 768 yards long. Warp Beaming Speeds - With the old type of warp beaming machine taking supply from unrolling double-flanged bobbins, the warping speed would be about 70 yards per minute. In modern beam warpers taking supply overend from cones, the warping speed is up to 250 yards per minute. With beam barrels of 4¹/₂-in. dia., and up to 500 yards per minute with barrels of 10-in. dia. Warp and Weft Knitted Fabrics - Warp knitted fabrics in which extra yarn is introduced in the form of weft threads which are laid in between the warp threads and their needles for the purpose of adding extra weight and for patterning purposes. Warp Loom Tapes - Narrow knitted fabrics usually less than one inch wide used for trimming garments. They are knitted on circular latch needle machines, but the tapes are flat. Direct Warping - A method used in making warps for towels, fustians, and other fabrics in which the total number of ends can be accommodated in one creel, say not more than 1,000 ends. The threads are run from the creel direct to the weaver's beam on a machine similar to that used in section beam warping. Mill Warping - There are two distinctly different methods of mill warping. On the vertical mill, which may be anything up to 20 yards in circumference, the number of ends in the complete warp is obtained by repeating the runs the required number of times, e.g., with 200 bobbins in the creel, 4 runs would give a warp of 800 ends. The length of the warp is determined by the number of revolutions made by the mill for each run. The horizontal mill is much used in Yorkshire for making woollen and worsted warps It is used to a small extent for cotton warps and is largely used for making silk and rayon warps. The mill or swift is usually about 5 yards in circumference. Its distinctive feature is the making of warps in sections which are wound on the mill in overlapping manner. The creel capacity varies from 250 to 600 ends, and with 500 ends in the creel a warp of 5,000 ends would require ten sections. Section Warping for Coloured Goods - This is a system of making coloured striped warps from hank-dyed and bleached yarns. The bobbins are creeled to pattern, one or more complete patterns to each section. Each section is the full length of the warp and is run on a small section block keywayed to fit a key on the shaft of the subsequent beaming machine where the sections are placed side by side and run on the weaver's beam. Scotch Dresser Sizing - There are two systems of warp preparation known as Scotch dressing. 1. Dresser sizing used for sizing warps for linen damasks, etc. Back beams are first made and placed in two beam creels, one on each side of the headstock. The threads from several back beams are collected in one sheet of yarn, sized by passage through a size-box, brushed by a revolving brush, dried by hot air, and passed vertically upwards where both sheets of warp threads are united and pass on to the weaver's beam in a single sheet. Scotch Warp Dressing - The other method of Scotch dressing is used in the preparation of coloured striped warps, usually from warp-dyed and bleached yarn. It consists in splitting off from ball warps previously dyed or bleached and sized, the number of ends of each colour required in the finished warp. Each group is then wound on separate flanged warpers' beams. These beams are placed in a creel and the ends drawn through a reed according to pattern, and wound finally on to the weavers' beams. Yorkshire Warp Dressing - This is a system used mostly in the preparation of coloured striped warps. It is also invaluable in preparing warps dyed and sized in warp form to prevent shadiness in the cloth. Four warps with the same number of ends in each are dyed the same colour, and in sleying, one end from each warp is put in each dent of the reed. Any tendency to shadiness arising from irregularity in dyeing is thereby effectively eliminated. In striped work the required ends are split off if necessary from a larger ball warp, sleyed to pattern in the reed, and then run under controlled tension on to the weaver's beam. The dresser uses a brush as long as the width of the warp to brush out entangled places where the threads have adhered together with size. Yorkshire dressing provides perfect warps with every thread in its proper place on the weaver's beam, no crossed or missing threads, and a minimum of knots.

Ex: Icons, or pictorial representations of objects in systems, were pioneered by Xerox.

Ex: If the book has an unusual shape then both the height and the width of the book will be given.

* Caballero de la Triste Figura, el = Knight of the Doleful Countenance, the.

* escultura de figura humana = figure sculpture.

* figura de ánfora = hourglass figure.

* figura de cartón = cardboard cutout.

* figura decorativa = figurehead.

* figura de guitarra = hourglass figure.

* figura geométrica = geometric shape, geometric pattern.

* figura recortada = cutout [cut-out].

* figura recortada de cartón = cardboard cutout.

Ex: The introductions to the chapters are by outstanding leaders in their fields who provide inside information about the nature of the work.

* con figuras en movimiento = animated.

* figura de culto = cult figure, cult hero.

* figura destacada = leading figure.

* figura histórica = historical figure.

* figura materna = mother figure.

* figura mediadora = mediating figure.

* figura paterna = father figure, parental figure.

* figura política = political figure.

* figura prominente = outstanding leader.

 

Del verbo figurar: ( conjugate figurar)

figura es:



Multiple Entries:
figura    
figurar
figura sustantivo femenino
figure;

una figura de las letras an important literary figure;
figura paterna father figure
figurar ( conjugate figurar) verbo intransitivo (en lista, documento) to appear
figurarse verbo pronominal
to imagine;
me figuro que sí I imagine so, I figure she (o he etc) will (AmE);
me figuro que tardaremos una hora I reckon o (AmE) figure that it'll take us one hour;
¡figúrate, tardamos dos horas! just imagine! it took us two hours;
ya me lo figuraba yo I thought as much, so I thought
figura
I sustantivo femenino
1 (aspecto) figure: tiene una figura esbelta, she's slim
2 (representación) figure: en el jardín había figuras de mármol, there were marble statues in the garden
3 (persona destacada) es una figura del deporte, he's a well-known sportsman
figurar
I vi (en una lista, en un grupo) to figure [como, as] [entre, among]: no figura entre los seleccionados, she wasn't listed in the selection
II vt to represent

' figura' also found in these entries:
Spanish:
bosquejo
- estampa
- figurar
- inscribir
- inversión
- línea
- resaltar
- rompecabezas
- sílfide
- solitaria
- solitario
- surgir
- talle
- agraciado
- apuesto
- atlético
- cono
- construir
- cruz
- dama
- destacar
- dimensión
- distinguir
- esbozar
- estilizado
- falla
- formar
- gracioso
- invertido
- invertir
- lucir
- modelar
- plano
- proporcionado
- realce
- realzar
- recortar
- redondel
- revelación
- tipo
- vértice
English:
apostrophe
- father figure
- figure
- figure of speech
- rank
- ex-directory
- loom
- name
- piece
- unlisted
Fam Esp Fam

The underside of a cloth as woven in the loom. Some cloths are woven face down for ease in weaving; as, for instance, warp satins, in which the lift is 4 / 1, by weaving face down, only one thread is lifted and four remain down. The pattern in a fancy cloth will always indicate the face, and so will the finish.

A weaving fault caused by threads of warp breaking while in the loom. This is a serious defect when the cloth has a pattern or when coloured ends are used.

The principal types are Axminster, Brussels and Wilton, and brief particulars of each are given below. A more detailed description is given under each name. Axminster is a cut fabric made any width and with any number of colours. It is not produced on a jacquard, therefore the pile does not show on the back. The design is developed by a series of tufts which are bound into the fabric, every tuft is on the surface and only the foundation cloth is seen at the back. There are two principal varieties of these carpets, the Chenille Axminster and the Machine tufted Axminster. The Chenille type is made by two distinct operations, that of manufacturing the chenille weft and that of weaving the carpet with this weft. The " fur or chenille is first woven on an ordinary loom (see chenille) and when cut into the strips is used as weft with a linen, jute or folded cotton warp. The chenille is made preferably with the leno way of shedding in order to bind the wool yarn more firmly. All the figuring weft is on the surface and not embedded in the fabric. The chenille weft is often inserted by hand, but several mechanical methods for doing the work are now in use. From three to six tufts per inch are usual. The chenille Axminster Carpet is also known as the Patent Axminster carpet. The machine-tufted type or Royal Axminster is also formed from pile tufts previously prepared and afterwards woven in the ground warp and bound into the fabric with a binding weft. The tufts may be inserted by hand and the pile is all on the surface of the fabric. This pile is a warp product, whereas for the chenille variety it is weft. Axminster carpets are a product of skill and patience and any number of colours can be used. There are several varieties of machine-made axminster carpets. Wilton is a cut pile fabric woven 27-in. wide from not more than six colours, the yarns are fine counts and design produced by jacquards. Brussels is made almost in the same way as a Wilton, but the pile is not cut and this shows as loops on the face. The yarn is much coarser than for Wiltons. Kidderminster - A carpet made from two or more plain cloths woven together. Each cloth is brought on the face for figuring as required. Turkish - These are hand made. The pile is put into the ground warp by hand as tufts and knotted round them according to pattern. There are two picks of ground weft between each row of pile. Tapestry - Carpets woven from printed warps. The pile is cut or left uncut as required for the design. Persian - Carpets similar to Turkish, being hand made. See also Axminster, Brussels, Kidderminster, Persian Tapestry, Turkish, Wilton Carpets, Body Brussels, Brusselette, Ingrain.

An all-colour cotton cloth made for the Hausa natives of Africa. Plain weave; warp pattern, about 10 ends dark indigo, 2 ends light indigo, with weft similar. The yams are hard-twisted, and the weft is sized, which gives a rough, harsh feel to the cloth. Usually made 28-in. wide, 58 ends and 42 picks per inch, 18's dark, 2/80's light indigo warp, 16's dark, 60's light indigo weft. Shipped in the loom state in 10 yard ends.

The name is derived from Linum (flax) and oleum (oil). It is made by mixing ground cork with hardened linseed oil and laying this upon the coarse foundation cloth backing. The better qualities are inlaid in different colours so that the pattern does not wear off. They are made from 72-in. up to 150-in. wide and wound on wood rollers as the cloth leaves the loom. Jute yarns are usual and the fabric is very coarse.

Reeds are counted in two systems: (1) Those in which the count or sett is expressed by the number of dents or splits contained in a given space, and include the Radcliffe, Huddersfield, Stockport, Scottish and Macclesfield systems; (2) those in which the count or sett indicates the number of groups of dents contained in a given space. These groups are variously termed beers, porties, or porters, and include the Bolton, Bradford, Dewsbury, Leeds, and Dundee systems. For details see under each system given. REED, ERDMANN - A patented reed used to weave ondule or waved patterns. The wires are specially shaped, and the reeds are raised and lowered in the loom while weaving. REED, FLEXIBLE - Specially constructed reeds used for leno weaving where the douping threads are very thick. They are made by wrapping only one baulk with pitched cord and the other with unpitched cord. REED MARKS - Marks or streaks running the warp way of the cloth. Marks uniformly across the cloth are usually due to insufficient warp threads per inch. Isolated marks may be due to a defective reed. Reed marks may also be caused by incorrect setting of the warp rollers, incorrect timing of shedding and picking, and also by wrong weighting of the warp. REED, OMBRE - A mill term in the U.S.A. for reed marks in cloth showing in the form of streaks running warp way and caused by irregular spacing of the warp threads. REEDS, ONDULE, FAN, or PAQUET - Specially constructed reeds used for weaving wave effects down the cloth. They are of many forms, and when weaving are raised and lowered as required for pattern (see Ondule)